New Year’s Eve in London

I was in London for the New Year’s Eve in 2016. I had never had the chance to visit this royal and sorrowful city before, and here it was, dressed up so attractively with its street decorations. The first thing that grabbed my attention was the dark. I spent most of my time walking around this city in the dark, I suppose down to the time of year. To tell the truth, the darkness weighed heavily on me, and I craved the sun. I would like to visit in July or August to make a comparison. But thankfully I had missed the heavy rain, as I don’t believe it rains anywhere quite like in London, and certainly neither in America nor in Turkey. There was no dust in the city. Due to this, and perhaps also because the city cares for its history, there were no decrepit-looking buildings. Even the historical buildings were looking good. My flat in Istanbul looks older than some of their buildings from the 1800s, thanks to the air pollution!

England has a population of 55 million, of which 8 million live in London, and is the strongest country in the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland. The flag of the United Kingdom is known as the Union Jack, and is blue, red and white. The red cross in the middle of the flag represents England, while the other elements symbolize Wales, Scotland and Northern Ireland. 

The cultural and energetic metropolis of London was once described as the Capital of Europe, although these days this is probably no longer the case, thanks to Brexit. Its currency is the pound (£), which is generally a stable currency not given to ups and downs. Despite Parliamentary governance being supreme, the influence of the Queen, Elizabeth II, is obvious throughout the country, and one of the things that makes the UK special. London is a multicultural place, full of English, Welsh, Scottish and Irish people, and communities from all over the world.

The Romans knew that the River Thames was a perfect place for a commercial route and made London, then known as Londinium, the main commercial centre of the island in the 1^stcentury. These days London pivots around two centres: “The City of London” (shortened to ‘The City’) and “The City of Westminster”. Greenwich, which due to its geography and political influence marks the starting meridian we use to set our watches, is a World Heritage Site, as are the Tower of London, Kew Royal Botanic Gardens, Westminster Abbey and Big Ben. 

Finance and tourism are what drive London’s economy. London is one of the most famous places for tourists to visit in the world, with an astonishing array of places to visit like the British Museum, the Tate Modern, The National Gallery, The Natural History Museum, the London Eye, The Science Museum, Madame Tussauds, the National Maritime Museum and the Tower of London. Part of the reason for the popularity of these spots is that almost all museums and galleries in the city are free! Canary Wharf is a world centre of finance and generates around 20% of the United Kingdom’s income. 

One of the most interesting things I had read on the internet before visiting was that the traffic lights in the city, manually operated and lit with gas, have been around since 1868. As such we can understand that the people of London have had a devotion to cars for many years. After a while this devotion became an obsession, and had become such a problem that in 2003 they were obliged to make £12 congestion charge for entrance to the city centre between Monday and Friday, 07:00-18:00. Your licence plates are scanned by surveillance cameras and you can make the payment through internet or payment points. I was immediately curious whether there are people who take off their licence plates, or who cover them with a towel like in my own country. 

Despite the devotion to their cars, 90% of the British people use public transportation. From my experience this is because they have an unrivalled transportation network which works like clockwork. Even before they had traffic lights, by 1863 they had developed the first underground public transit system in the world, and named it “The Tube”. The word “Subway” is used to describe an underpass in England, even though it is used to describe the underground metro in the USA. London also boasts the first emergency call service, “999”. Moreover, the first city to host the modern Olympics was London. It has hosted the Olympics three times.  Truly a city of firsts.

London’s skyline is quite impressive. The highest skyscraper in the city is The Shard. It is also the highest in the European Union and can be viewed from anywhere in London. It is built between 2009 and 2012. The building stands at 309 metres high, has 72 floors, and you can visit the top floor with a ticket. Another skyscraper named “The Walkie Talkie” has actually done damage to the local area, thanks to its poorly designed architecture. In 2013, the reflected sunlight from the windows of this building melted a parked Jaguar, damaged local shops, and made world news. 

London is a place of learning, and it is one of the most crowded cities in the world when it comes to institutions, with 43 universities inside the city limits.

Swans are a common sight in ponds and in parks around the city, and every one of them is the property of the Royal Family. Swans were first brought from Cyprus in 12^thcentury, and to do any harm to these swans results in a stiff fine. In June 2014, a Turk had the dubious honour of receiving the first fine for putting a swan in his bag to cut and eat later. 

”Pub” is a shortening of “Public House” and is a fundamental part of English culture. British people usually spend their free time on Fridays and Saturdays in the pub, dedicated to alcohol. In old times, while rich people used to go to a tavern, poorer people would go to the pub both to eat snacks and drink beer in an environment that felt like home. Today, London’s nightlife is concentrated in the Soho area, and pubs and bars are open until 23:00. Later establishments for require a special licence, but there are plenty of them. One pub, called  “Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese”, has remained from olden times, and was built in 1667. Although the British are pioneers of pub culture, there are also restrictions. You cannot drink on public transportation or carry an open bottle of alcohol. 

London is full of interesting and odd historical stories. For example, in 1696 a tax was carried out which was nicknamed “Daylight Robbery” by the public. A tax was levied on houses, the amount of which depended on the size and number of windows that your house had. The tax was in place for over 150 years, which seems remarkable, and it wasn’t until the 1800s that they realized how ridiculous it was. As a result, there are many old houses in London with bricked-up windows, designed to avoid the tax. 

As far as I could see there were more Arabs and Muslims in London than in Turkey. Most jewelers shops were managed by women in burqas, and I constantly saw Pakistani, Indian and Black people in working across the city in all sorts of jobs. 

Another fun fact I discovered during my research was the reason that the British put milk in their tea. In the olden days only the rich had access to good quality porcelain. Because low quality porcelain gets dirty and cracks easily, poorer people used milk to hide these defects. Therefore, your status was defined by whether you took your tea with milk or not. 

As with many European countries, there are turnstiles at the entrances and exits of the Underground stations, and you scan your ticket at both the entry and the exit. It is vital that you do not lose your ticket, otherwise you will be fined up to £80! A great tip for when you are riding on the Underground is to pick up and have a read  of the various newspapers and magazines available for free at most Underground stations. They usually include some great ideas of things to do, and also sometimes coupon codes for restaurants and tourist sights. 

Some Interesting Details About Queen Elisabeth:

• Although she travels around the world, from country to country, she has no passport. Also, even though she drives her Range Rover, she has no driving licence. 
• Though her actual date of birth is 21 April 1926, the official celebrations for the Queen’s Birthday are held in May and June.
• The Queen drove a first aid truck during the 2nd World War. 
• She married her 3^rd cousin, Philip Mountbatten.
• She sent her first email in 1976. 

THINGS TO SEE AND PLACES TO VISIT

Hyde Park: This huge, world famous park provides serious competition to Central Park in New York for ‘Best Park in the World. It hosts concerts and festivals during the summer months. In central London there are also Regents Park and St James Park, right in front of Buckingham Palace, but in my opinion if you have limited time it is worth visiting Hyde Park over all the others. Inside there is a lake, and Kensington Palace where Princess Diana lived after her marriage to Prince Charles ended. 

Buckingham Palace: It was built as the estate house of the Duke of Buckingham in London in 1702. The famous architect John Nash, who influenced much of London’s architecture, transformed the house into a palace between 1820 and 1830. Both George IV and William IV died before the construction was completed, and as a result, Queen Victoria came to this palace for the first time in 1837 and turned it into an office for the Royal Family. The most interesting places in the Palace, which has 775 rooms, are the Queen’s private rooms, the music room for royal baptisms, and the ball room for engagement ceremonies. The other interesting feature of the Palace, which has hosted Presidents and state ceremonies throughout its history, is the Queen’s art collection. 3 sections of the Palace have been open to the public since 1993. If the flag is raised, it means that the Queen is in the Palace. A recommended sight, if you are there at the right time and in suitable weather, is the Changing of the Guard, which takes place at 1130am every day from April to June, on odd days of the week in August, and on even days in September. I didn’t have time to watch, but if you do it is advisable to be in place before 10:00. If you want to have your photo taken with one of the Palace guards be advised that there is a specific guard with whom it is allowed to take photos. Do not try and take a photo with just any guard!

Parliament Square: Westminster Palace, also known as the Houses of Parliament, as well as Big Ben, Westminster Abbey and St Margaret’s Church, are found in this square. Westminster Palace is the only remaining part of the Parliament building which dates from 1097. the ceiling was constructed in the 14^thcentury, and was carved from wood. The Houses of Parliament are the home of the British government, restored after a fire in 1512. These days it hosts the House of Commons and the House of Lords. The party who has the most members in the House of Commons forms the government, and leader of the party becomes the Prime Minister. The traditions and customs of the British Government are still quite old, and to be honest quite weird. For example, at the ‘Opening of Parliament’ the Queen gives a speech about how the leading party will govern, while sitting on a throne in the House of Lords. After an accidental fire in 1834, the building was restored to as close as its original state over 30 years. Tourists can visit the Parliament Buildings in the summer. If you are British, you can even watch the proceedings in the House of Commons, and see laws being made. 

The famous Big Ben Tower is a part of Westminster Palace. It is the second biggest four sided clock tower in the world, stands 96.3 metres tall, and is built in the Victorian Gothic style. Big Ben is actually the name of the 13 ton bell while the tower itself is called St Stephens Tower, but everyone calls the whole thing Big Ben. From its construction in 1859 until today the clock has always shown the correct time, and Big Ben has become one of the most recognisable symbols of England across the world. 

Being one of the most beautiful surviving examples of medieval architecture Westminster Abbey, is another hugely important place in the history of England. Since 1066, it has hosted many royal weddings, coronations and funerals. Most recently, the wedding of Prince William and Kate Middleton was held here. It is also a place for the graves of many of the most important royal family members and scholars, as well as the graves of Isaac Newton and Charles Darwin. 

River Thames:  This 340 km long river flows through the south of England, passing through London before reaching the North Sea. There are lots of historical bridges above and tunnels below which connect the two sides. There are a variety of sightseeing boat trips on the river, as well as a public riverboat service.

London Eye: A large ferris wheel on the banks of the River Thames which although relatively recently built has become one of the symbols of London. Fireworks are launched from here for the New Year celebrations. You can watch the New Year show from the Victoria Embankment Street on the opposite side of the river to the London Eye, as well as from Waterloo and Westminster Bridges, but it has not been free to do so since 2014 and you should buy your tickets almost a year in advance! I tried to buy mine two months prior to my visit, but it was already sold out, and I had to buy it from the black market with a higher price. The London Eye is an enjoyable activity that takes about half an hour, and gives you a wonderful view of London and its many sights. If you go in the morning, you will not have to wait in line for too long. I boarded by buying the London Eye + Madame Tussauds combined ticket.

The Tower of London: The Tower is one of the oldest buildings in London, situated on the north bank of the River Thames. It has been many things during its long history, but it has been most famously and forebodingly used as a long-term prison. Those who opposed the monarchy were imprisoned, and sometimes executed here. Throughout history the Tower has also protected the Royal Family’s jewels, as well as being the main arsenal for the city. 

Built in 1078 by William I, ‘The Conqueror’, who had become the king of England after his successful invasion in 1066. This well-preserved royal castle is worth a visit, and offers the chance to see the amazing collection of royal jewels, as well as the traditional and charming Yeoman Warders or ‘Beefeaters’, who still stand guard. According to legend, the kingdom will be destroyed if the great black ravens who live in the grounds ever leave the Tower (although the custodians have cheated a little by pinioning the wings of the birds to make it impossible for them to fly away!). There is also a monument to the memory of the ravens killed here, which is quite interesting. This is where I started my London tour. From here I crossed Tower Bridge and walked around Queensway and its back streets, then went to Big Ben.

Tower Bridge: For a magnificent city view and the chance to take perfect pictures with an iconic London backdrop, one of the best and most enjoyable things you can do is to walk over this historic bridge. Opened in 1894, the bridge is a beautiful and extraordinary example of the architecture and engineering of the Victorian era. The double decker platform that connects the two towers folds upwards to allow the passage of large ships, and this mechanism was powered by steam until 1976. Today, the mechanism works with electricity, but seeing the two halves of the bridge rise up is still an impressive sight. Here you can visit an exhibition of photography about the history of the bridge, participate in an interactive show and take a closer look at the old steam engine if you are interested.

Queensway: A lively road which takes you on a pleasant stroll by the river, past an array of shops, restaurants and cafes, as well as some wonderful attractions. As its name suggests it was originally the Queen’s Way. Because I visited over the New Year, I had the chance to visit the riverside Christmas market, which was a real treat. After crossing Tower Bridge, I continued to walk along the riverside path, and came to Queensway. I passed the “City Hall” and went through some narrow side streets which eventually led me to Borough Market. After exploring the vibrant market stalls I headed back to the river and ate fish & chips at The Anchor Restaurant,  a recommendation of a friend who lived there. There is a Nandos is nearby as well, but I think you should save Nandos for Piccadilly. I took a look at Shakespeare’s Globe from the outside and continued along the river to the Tate Modern. The path continues all the way along the river back into the centre of town, ending up at the London Aquarium and the London Eye as you approach Westminster Bridge. 

St. Paul’s Cathedral: The original medieval Cathedral of St Paul, the centre of the diocese of London, was devastated after the Great Fire of London in 1666. The restoration of the cathedral was undertaken by the renowned architect Christoper Wren, who originally proposed to rebuild the cathedral as it originally stood. His initial plans were rejected by the conservative abbot of St Paul’s. His second proposal, which proposed a nave in the form of the Greek Cross were also rejected on the grounds that they were too radical. The current magnificence of St. Paul’s Cathedral is the third model, which was designed as a more moderate option in 1675. 

When you visit the cathedral, the most important thing you will notice is that the wonderful structure of the place. A cross, echoing the style of medieval European cathedrals forms the plan of the choir. With a height of 110 meters the Cathedral has the second largest dome in the world after St. Peter’s Church in Rome, and weighs over 850 tons. As you walk down the cathedral’s southern corridor, you can climb 259 steps and listen to the amazing acoustics of the “Whisper Gallery”, where even the slightest, softest whisper echoes in the dome. With the help of the best craftsmen of the period, the magnificent interior was designed to create an atmosphere suitable for the biggest and most important ceremonies. Winston Churchill’s funeral and Prince Charles and Lady Diana’s weddings were held here. I was delighted to discover a Turkish connection, as St Paul was born in Tarsus.

Piccadilly Circus: Although not the largest square in the city, for me Piccadilly Circus is the main square of London. It is lit by neon signs like Times Square in New York, and it is the intersection of five of London’s busiest streets. In the middle stands the Shaftesbury Memorial Fountain (commonly but mistakenly known as Eros), which was erected in 1893. From here you can easily reach the main sights and attractions of the city, like Hyde Park, Soho, Oxford Street and Regent Street. This is the centre of London life during the day and at night, full of cafes, bars and restaurants, so it is lively and crowded at all hours. It is also a centre of culture and entertainment in the city, and Her Majesty’s Theatre and the Theatre Royal Haymarket, where Phantom of the Opera is on show, are both found here.

Soho: Diving into the back streets from Piccadilly Circus, you quickly find yourself in Soho. Soho is one of the highlights of London’s nightlife, crowded 24/7, and full of pubs, clubs and decadence. Old Compton Street, the main thoroughfare, has been a home for artists, writers and painters for centuries, and always draws a crowd.

China Town: In the back streets of Soho sits London’s Chinatown, a fascinating spot filled with amazing Chinese restaurants and a remarkably strong and vibrant cultural influence. Just like stepping into a little slice of China.

Regent’s Park: One of London’s prettiest parks, Regent’s Park stands on the edge of Central London, and is home to the Regent’s University and London Zoo.

Leicester Square: Like Soho, Leicester Square is also one of the main centres for nightlife in the city. The square is ringed with casinos, cinemas and theatres, where the main premieres are held. For those with a sweet tooth, M&M’s World is also here. Inside the small park in the square there is the fountain with a statue of William Shakespeare, with the handprints of famous actors like Tom Cruise, Arnold Schwarzenegger and Sylvester Stallone etched into the concrete in front.

Thorpe Park: London’s closest amusement park with rollercoasters.

Greenwich: It is one of London’s original towns, as well as the home of the Meridian Line. You can reach Greenwich by Underground, bus or by riverboat from Embankment station. These boats are called Thames Clippers and the journey takes 35-40 min, slower than on the Underground but with the bonus of a wonderful view. 

Notting Hill: In 1999 the film ‘Notting Hill’ starring Julia Roberts and Hugh Grant perfectly captured the look, feel and gorgeous atmosphere of this area of London. The film was shot here, and it is the place I enjoyed most in London. This area underwent a lot of development in the 1950s, when a large Caribbean community settled here. In the last week of August it hosts the second largest street carnival in the world, after the Rio Carnival. Portobello Market is a place you shouldn’t leave without seeing, and is the best place in London to shop for antiques, jewelry, clothes and souvenirs. There is also a flea market here on Saturdays…where I ended up filling most of my luggage!

Trafalgar Square: London’s main square. The most interesting and imposing feature of the square itself is the monument of Admiral Lord Nelson in the centre, who died in the battle of Trafalgar in 1805. Nelson’s Column, as it is called, was built in 1843 and is 52 m high.

Covent Garden: One of London’s main shopping areas, this used to be the home of the largest flower markets in the city. Now it is a place where you can stock up on souvenirs for your loved ones back home

Camden Town: A little further from the centre of town you can find Camden Town, the neighborhood where Amy Winehouse once lived. After Notting Hill it was my favorite place in the city. In the old Stables Market, you can find an array of shops, boutiques and market stalls all set around the around Camden Lock on the Regents Canal. Here there are an amazing selection of gifts, souvenirs, original handmade products and foods. The pubs and clubs are just as beautiful. 

Museums: There are too many museums in London to provide a comprehensive list, and it would take a lifetime to visit them all. I chose to visit 3 of them during my stay here. The first one was Madame Tussaud’s, where the wax statues of celebrities are on display. Madame Tussaud’s sculpture career started off when she was employed making wax masks of the well-known victims of the French Revolution and her first exhibition was held in 1835. When I saw the wax model of the great leader Atatürk, whom I felt very sorry for at the time due to the attacks on him in recent years, I could not hold back my tears. Since you are allowed to touch the statues, I held his arm and took a photo. As you exit the museum, a train takes you on an animated journey through the history of London, which is a lovely bonus to this museum. It is vital to get to this museum early because it is very popular, and they only allow a certain number of people inside, holding back the line until enough people leave. The queue can get very long. Although I didn’t go in, just around the corner from Madame Tussaud’s is the Sherlock Holmes Museum, which I’m told is interesting.

The second museum I visited was the British Museum, one of the oldest museums in the world, established in 1753 by Sir Hans Sloane to hold his formidable collection from around the globe. The museum is 4 km long museum, and has expanded its collection over the years, now exhibiting two million years of the history of the world and its civilizations in its 94 galleries. The most interesting part for me was the “Gebelein Man” section, which is claimed to be the mummy of a Pharaoh. Most importantly, entrance to the museum is free :). 

London is well served for art galleries, with both the National Gallery, the most important museum in London with more than 2200 paintings, and the National Portrait Gallery next door. As my tastes run more to modern art, I preferred to spend my time at the Tate Modern, and I was lucky enough to see an exhibition of Roy Lichtenstein’s works. 

Sadly I couldn’t take the time, but if you want to see the famous portrait of Fatih Sultan Mehmet “The Sultan Mehmet II” by the Italian painter Gentile Bellini and the bronze money of Fatih Sultan Mehmet, you can go to Victoria and Albert Museum. If you are interested in wildlife, you can go just next door to the National History Museum. If you are interested in Shakespeare, you can visit Shakespeare’s Globe, a remarkable copy of the original theatre where Shakespeare’s plays were performed over 400 years ago. The original theatre burned down in the Great Fire in 1666, and the theatre you’ll see today is a perfect copy of the original, and still hosts performances of these amazing plays.

Abbey Road: After visiting Notting Hill, I stopped off at Abbey Road where the Beatles’ Abbey Road album cover was photographed, and their album was recorded.

Shopping: Regent Street and Oxford Street are the main shopping streets of the city, located close to Piccadilly Circus. Here you can find every kind of store you could possibly want, open until 7 in the evening. New Bond Street, just around the corner, is also worth checking out, for slightly higher-end shops. 

Primark on Oxford Street is a chain of mid-range stores with branches throughout the UK. This is one of the best stores in London to find nice things at affordable prices, as the rest of the city can be very expensive! For cute boutiques and a taste of Swinging 60s London, head down to Carnaby Street. I bought posters from a bookstore I like very much there. For luxury shopping head to Knightsbridge and Kensington. Sloane Square, a very pretty little square just down from Knightsbridge, is full of the most luxurious brands around like Gucci, Burberry, Harvey Nichols, D&G, Versace, Fendi, and Louis Vuitton. While you are here you can also visit the famous Harrods store. To be honest, the centre of London is a complete shopping paradise, but if you want an outlet, there is Chic Outlet Bicester Village, designed as a ‘shopping village’ concept, just outside the city. It takes 45 minutes by train to get to from London, and around 1 hour and 15 minutes by car.

Transportation: Everything in the city centre is generally within walking distance, and I almost never got on the Tube because I wanted to see the city and I was in no hurry to go anywhere. When my feet hurt from walking, I got on the bus. That said, the public transport network is great. My flight landed atStansted Airport, which is about 66 km from London. I paid £15 for a train which took me straight to Liverpool Street station, and jumped on the Tube for £2 to Chelsea where my hotel was. Unfortunately, there is no Tax Free shopping at Stansted Airport. You should consider this before you buy a ticket. There are Tax Free shops in both Heathrow and Gatwick airports. 

The Oyster Card, which is used on all public transport in the city, is the same as our Istanbul Card. You can buy one from machines in the Underground stations and load it with money. When you use an Oyster card to travel the fare is lower than when buying a normal ticket. It’s like the difference between a Token and a Card in our country. Tickets are priced and bought by zone, and you need to make sure your ticket covers the zones you want to travel through (for example, you cannot go to zone 3 with tickets only valid in zone 1 and zone 2). However the most touristy areas are almost all in zones 1 and 2.  

Food: For a quick snack or a sandwich lunch, Pret A Manger is on nearly every corner. You can visit the “Nando’s” chain of restaurants, which are famous for their  flame-grilled chicken and have branches all across the city. However, what was most important to me was a place where I try fish & chips. I was given a wonderful recommendation by a friend of mine who lived in London for many years and whose taste I trusted: The Anchor Bankside, located on the corner of Bank end and Bankside Streets. They have crimson windows and it was nice to sit on the river and eat delicious fish & chips. This restaurant is perfectly located for a visit to Borough Market afterwards, where you can find fruit, vegetables, local dishes and souvenirs.